I don’t know about you, but I’m dreaming of warmer spring weather and getting back out in the garden! To satisfy that “gardening itch” that comes every winter, I like to dig out my seed starting supplies and grow tomatoes, peppers, and a few other veggies. Our last post focused on grow lights, which are arguably the most important piece of equipment for starting seeds. However, some seeds may not even germinate to see that light if you don’t keep them at the right temperature. So today, we’re going all-in on heat mats. 🔥
Some veggies will have no problem germinating in a cold basement (where I start my seeds), while others need some warmth to sprout in a timely fashion.
Luckily, master gardeners have determined the optimal temperature for germinating most veggies. The following chart is pulled from this paper by the University of California:
Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination
Crops
Minimum (ºF)
Optimum range (ºF)
Maximum (ºF)
Asparagus
50
75-85
95
Beans, Lima
60
75-85
85
Beans, Snap
60
75-85
95
Beets
40
65-85
95
Broccoli
40
60-85
95
Cabbage
40
60-85
95
Carrots
40
65-85
95
Cauliflower
40
65-85
95
Celery
40
*
*
Chard, Swiss
40
65-85
95
Corn
50
65-95
105
Cucumbers
60
65-95
105
Eggplant
60
75-85
95
Garlic
32
65-85
95
Leeks
32
65-85
95
Lettuce
32
60-75
85
Cantaloupe
60
75-85
105
Okra
60
85-95
105
Onions
32
65-85
95
Parsley
40
65-85
95
Parsnips
32
65-75
85
Peas
40
65-75
85
Peppers
60
65-75
95
Pumpkins
60
85-95
105
Radishes
40
65-85
95
Spinach
32
65-75
75
Squash
60
85-95
105
Tomatoes
50
65-85
95
Turnips
40
60-95
105
Watermelons
60
75-95
105
Source: California Master Gardener Handbook, 2nd edition, Regents of the University of California, Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Publication 3382 (Table 5.2, page 114).
You may have noticed the missing temperatures for celery. Celery requires diffused, non-direct light and a cooler night temperature than the day temperature for good germination. Its optimal conditions are 85°F during the day and 70°F at night.
Most heating mats don’t have an adjustable thermostat, so it’s hard to get the soil to the right temperature. And even if the heating mat works for one gardener, it might not work for you. This is because soil temperature can vary depending on a variety of factors:
Wattage of the heating matt
Amount of soil
Amount of water in the soil
Surrounding air temperature
Air movement
Heat from grow light(s)
That’s why we recommend a thermostat-controlled heating mat such as the Spider Farmer Heat Mat Kit. It comes with a temperature probe that you stick in the soil, so you know your seedlings are at the optimum temperature. No more guessing! However, if you already have a heat mat that is working for you and getting good germination rates, there’s no need to fix what isn’t broken.
One important thing to keep in mind: Not all seeds need a heat mat. Many cold-hardy crops such as lettuce, spinach, and peas will germinate just fine at room temperature. In fact, they might not germinate at all if the soil is too warm! Just take a look at the table above, the max germination temperature for spinach is just 75°F.
After your seeds germinate, unplug the heat mat. Besides wasting electricity, keeping the heat mat on can stress veggie roots and can cause some plants to bolt!