Sometimes, I just want to grow onions that are literally called Walla Walla. Don’t mind me if I do.

So let’s meet the extended Allium family; the spicy, teary-eyed relatives you know, the ancient ones you didn’t expect, and the perennial oddballs that keep coming back.

The Long History of Onions

Onions are among the oldest cultivated vegetables in the world. Archaeological evidence shows they were grown in Central Asia and the Middle East over 5,000 years ago. Ancient Egyptians adored them: onions were buried with pharaohs, symbolizing eternal life thanks to their endless rings. The Greeks trained athletes on diets full of onions, while the Romans believed onions improved strength and courage.

By the Middle Ages, onions were so valuable in Europe that they were used to pay rent and even given as wedding gifts. (Romantic, right? “Honey, I got you… onions.”)

Garlic, leeks, and chives share similar pedigrees, all part of the Allium family, which includes over 900 species worldwide. Today, we mostly lean on a few supermarket staples, but the family tree is much richer.

The Classics: Bulbing Alliums

• Yellow Onion: The global workhorse. Strong flavor, long storage.
• Red Onion: Likely originating from the Meditarranean. Sweeter, milder and beautiful raw in salads. Though less storable.
• White onion: Popular in Latin American cooking for centuries. Sharper, spicier, but with shorter shelf life.
• Shallots: Brought to Europe by Crusaders from the Middle East. Cluster-forming, sweet and subtle.
• Cipollini Onions: From Italy, bred for their high sugar content.

The Perennial Oddballs

• Welsh Onion (Allium fistulosum): Despite the name, this perennial comes from China, cultivated there for over 1,000 years. Never bulbs, just keeps giving green shoots every spring.
• Egyptian Walking Onion (Allium x proliferum): A medieval European curiosity, this hybrid reproduces via little bulbs that topple over and ‘walk’ across your garden.
• Chives (Allium Schoenoprasum): Native to both Europe and Asia, chives have been harvested since the Middle Ages. Their purple pompoms attract pollinators while you snip the leaves.
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum): Cultivated since ancient Egypt and Rome, leeks are mild and just awesome.

The Surprise Alliums

Not everything onion-y looks like an onion!

• Scallions / Spring Onions (young Allium cepa): Harvested before bulbing, these are basically teenage onions. Tender, mild, and fast-growing. Many people don’t realize they’re just “unfinished onions.” 
• Garlic: Traced back over 4,000 years, used in medicine and rituals. Egyptians fed it to pyramid builders for strength.
• Ornamental Alliums: Those tall garden fireworks with purple globe flowers? Still onions. They were first popularized in Victorian ornamental gardens.

Why do onions make us cry?

It’s all chemistry.

1. Cutting an onion breaks its cells
2. Those cells release an enzyme called alliinase
3. Alliinase reacts with sulfur compounds (absorbed from the soil) to produce ‘syn-Propanethial-S-Oxide’ (a volatile gas). Perfect word for when you’re playing Hangman.
4. That volatile gas drifts upward, stinging your eyes. Your tear glands release water to flush it out.

Cooking, chilling or soaking onions in water before chopping can reduce that reaction! But in short: onions evolved chemical tear gas to discourage predators.

Which makes me suddenly realize that I’m the predator here. Chopping through their defenses every evening. Now I feel kinda bad for the fam. 

Why plant diverse Alliums?

Each variety in the Allium family brings its own flavor to the table, from the fiery kick of white onions to the candy-like sweetness of Cipollini. By mixing annuals with perennials, you can enjoy harvests almost all year round. 

Growing heirloom varieties also means you’re keeping history alive in your garden, connecting directly to thousands of years of food culture! It’s not just about the kitchen either; ornamental Alliums draw in pollinators, while diversity in your beds makes your crops more resilient and less likely to be wiped out by disease.

Planting Now (September–October)

This is the perfect time to:

• Plant garlic cloves for harvest next summer.
• Plant shallot sets for gourmet bulbs by midsummer.
• Put in overwintering onion sets for an early summer harvest.
• Establish perennial Alliums like Welsh onions and walking onions.

Wanna know more about how to plant them? Check out this piece by Erin on** how to grow amazing Alliums,** full of practical tips to get your onion patch thriving.

Final Thought

The Allium family is ancient and diverse. From the reliable yellow onion to the flamboyant red, the wandering Egyptian, and the delicate chive, this clan has shaped kitchens and cultures for millennia. Planting a few new varieties this autumn means you’ll not only expand your harvest, you’ll also be growing a slice of history, resilience, and flavor that goes far beyond the supermarket net bag.

Like always, be mindful of the plants you eat. They’ve developed defenses, strategies, and quirks to make it this far. In their own way, they’re survivors, and a life, no matter how small, deserves respect.

Onions (and Shallots)

Onions- the allium family namesake- can be harvested as ‘bulbing onions’ (including what we think of as yellow onions, white onions, and red onions) or as ‘bunching onions’ which are onions grown for their green tops.

To grow bulbing onions, it’s critical to determine whether to grow ‘long-day’ onions, ‘short-day’ onions, or ‘intermediate-day’ (‘day neutral’) onions. This depends on where you live and how many hours of daylight your garden receives in the summer:

• Short-day onions form the best bulbs in southern regions with 11-12 hours of sunlight each day
• Intermediate-day onions work well in regions that receive 12-14 hours sunlight
• Long-day onions will form bulbs in northern regions with 14 or more hours of sunlight (note shallots are typically grown as long-day onions)

Be sure to research bulbing onion varieties that are best suited for your area.

Onions can be grown from ‘sets’ which are small bulbs sold in bags, ‘starts’ which are small pre-started onion plants, or from seed. Sets are easy to work with but they may not produce bulbs as large as onions grown from starts and seeds. Starts are also easy to grow, however if you’re comfortable starting seeds indoors give onion seeds a try!

Onions can be planted outdoors before your last frost date, once the soil is workable. They should be planted about 1-1.5” deep into loose soil that will allow the bulbs to expand. Some gardeners advocate “spooning” onions - scooping some soil out from around the bulb to encourage it to grow outwards. This is not necessary, but if you have the time go for it!

Onions are ready to harvest once the leaves start to flop over. Pull the onions out of the ground, snip off the leaves and roots, gently wipe off any surface dirt, and allow them to dry for two weeks before storing.

Chives

If you’re looking for the easiest allium to grow, be sure to plant some chives! Chives are hardy perennial herbs that will keep coming back year after year. Chives can be grown from seeds or purchased as transplants. Or, if you have a neighbor growing chives, ask if you could divide them and take a small clump to plant!

Chives are best planted in spring, as they flourish in cooler temperatures- you may find their growth stalls in the summer only to come back again in fall. They like loose, well draining soil and while they are drought-tolerant, they do best with consistent moisture. To harvest chives, simply use garden snips to trim off some leaves near the base of the plant. Chives have a mild onion flavor- similar to green onion but more delicate. Later in spring chives will produce beautiful flower blooms- these are edible too and have the same subtle onion-y flavor!

Leeks

Leeks tend to be an expensive gourmet ingredient, but you can grow them in your garden for next to nothing! They are surprisingly easy to grow and have a very unique, gentle onion flavor. Like onions, leeks can be grown from seeds or starts. Leeks with long white stems are prized in the kitchen-  the green parts are usually discarded or used for soup stock. To get the desirable white stems they need to be ‘blanched’ - that is covered and protected from the sun. There are a few ways to achieve this: one is by using a tool called a dibber to make holes 6” deep in the soil - into which you can insert young leek plants. Mulch or dry soil can also be hilled up around the leek stems, or cardboard tubes can be used.

One thing to keep in mind is leeks can take a very long time to grow- be sure to plant them with enough time to mature and plan your garden space accordingly.

Garlic

If you enjoy cooking with garlic it is absolutely worthwhile to add garlic to your garden- the flavor of home-grown garlic is incomparable! For best results garlic should be planted in the fall within two weeks of your first frost date. In a pinch garlic can also be planted once the soil is workable in spring, just be aware that the bulbs will not grow as large. When it comes to choosing garlic varieties it’s important to look for varieties that are adapted to your region. ‘Softneck’ garlic varieties tend to be grown in warmer climates where ‘hardneck’ varieties tend to be grown in colder climates, as they require a prolonged period of cold temperatures (although this can be replicated in the fridge if you are growing in a warm climate or planting in spring). There is also ‘elephant garlic’ which is technically a leek even though it forms bulbs like garlic.

When planting garlic be sure to separate the bulbs into individual cloves, but leave the papery skins on each clove. Plant with the pointed end up/flat end down. How deep to plant your garlic depends on where you live - in colder climates it can be beneficial to plant your garlic up to 4” deep to protect it from winter chill, but in less extreme climates 2-3” is sufficient. Garlic can also be mulched to help protect it over the winter- if using mulch you may not need to plant quite as deep.

Garlic will emerge and start to grow in springtime. Hardneck garlic will shoot up a curly stem with a flower bud on top called a ‘scape’. Garlic scapes should be removed when they start to curl, to allow the plant to focus energy on bulb development. Garlic scapes are delicious and can be used in any recipe that calls for garlic!

Garlic is ready to harvest once several of its leaves start to wither and die. In some cases garlic can be pulled directly from the soil and in other cases a pitchfork might be in order! Cut off the leaves and roots, gently wipe off any surface dirt, and allow them to dry for two weeks before storing.

While tomatoes, peppers, and other summer favorites often take center stage in the garden, be sure to save space for alliums- they’re the ultimate low effort, high reward crop!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!