Lexi Hovan on Planter | Growing Guide https://blog.planter.garden/author/lexi-hovan/ Recent content in Lexi Hovan on Planter | Growing Guide https://blog.planter.garden/ https://blog.planter.garden/ Hugo -- gohugo.io en-us Planter Tue, 01 Feb 2022 05:00:00 +0000 How to Start Seeds Indoors https://blog.planter.garden/posts/how-to-start-seeds-indoors/ Tue, 01 Feb 2022 05:00:00 +0000 https://blog.planter.garden/posts/how-to-start-seeds-indoors/ Many plants must be started indoors, especially in regions with short growing seasons. Vegetables like peppers are almost always started by seed indoors because they need warm soil to germinate. Other plants which are often started indoors include broccoli, cabbage, celery, eggplant, and tomatoes. Vegetables such as beans do not take well to transplanting and should be sown directly outdoors at planting time. There are a handful of supplies you need in order to start seeds indoors. Many plants must be started indoors, especially in regions with short growing seasons. Vegetables like peppers are almost always started by seed indoors because they need warm soil to germinate. Other plants which are often started indoors include broccoli, cabbage, celery, eggplant, and tomatoes. Vegetables such as beans do not take well to transplanting and should be sown directly outdoors at planting time.

There are a handful of supplies you need in order to start seeds indoors. These include: a seed-starting tray, seed-starting mix, and sometimes a heat mat. If you do not have a sunny windowsill to place your seed-starting trays in, you will also need to buy a grow light. All of these supplies can be found at your local garden center. Plastic seed-starting trays are most commonly used, however, there are also biodegradable trays which can be inserted directly into the ground. Be sure to label your seed-starting trays if you are growing more than one type/variety of vegetable; most seedlings look nearly identical! One way to do this is by writing the plant name on popsicle sticks, as shown below. You can also apply masking tape to the sides of the trays and write the plant name there. Or use plant labels.


The first step to starting seeds indoors is to determine which plants you’d like to grow. Individual seed packets often have specific planting instructions printed on them. Fill your seed-starting tray’s ‘cells’ with seed-starting mix, or any potting soil mix. Plant your seeds at the depth listed on the seed packets. Different seeds have different light requirements. Many can germinate in the dark, as long as there is adequate heat. If the room you are starting your seeds in gets chilly, a heated seed-starting mat may be a worthy investment. Once seeds have successfully germinated and sprouted, place the trays underneath your grow light. At first, you will want the light to be about 2-12” inches away from the seedling. Stronger lights should be placed further away. As the seedlings grow, raise the grow light accordingly. If your light source, whether it be sunlight or artificial light, is too far away from your seedlings, they may become ‘leggy’ and collapse.

Generally, most seedlings should be transplanted into the garden around the time of the last frost date for your region. However, be sure to check seed packets or an online database for plant-specific transplant dates. Apps like Planter provide a quick and easy reference. Do not wait too long to transplant, as seedlings can become rootbound in the tray’s small cells. It is often useful to ‘harden off’ your seedlings by gradually exposing them to the outdoors prior to transplanting. This acclimates the plants to the elements and betters their chances of survival. If using plastic seed-starting trays, you must remove the seedling before planting. You can either cut away the plastic or gently squeeze the sides of each ‘cell’ to release it. Be sure not to damage the seedling’s fragile roots in this process. Once the seedling is released from the tray, simply dig a small hole in the desired planting area and insert your transplant. Be sure to water after transplanting, and fertilize the young plant after a few days go by.

]]> Preparing Your Garden for Winter https://blog.planter.garden/posts/preparing-your-garden-for-winter/ Thu, 04 Nov 2021 04:00:00 +0000 https://blog.planter.garden/posts/preparing-your-garden-for-winter/ Many people think that after a fall harvest, your garden is to be left alone until planting time next spring. The truth of the matter is that there are a handful of methods to ‘winterize’ your garden in preparation for a successful growing season next year. While mostly optional, these practices can help increase yields and prevent disease in the next growing season. A first step would be removing most dead plant matter from the previous growing season. Many people think that after a fall harvest, your garden is to be left alone until planting time next spring. The truth of the matter is that there are a handful of methods to ‘winterize’ your garden in preparation for a successful growing season next year. While mostly optional, these practices can help increase yields and prevent disease in the next growing season.

A first step would be removing most dead plant matter from the previous growing season. This matter can be added to compost piles as long as the plants did not show any signs of disease. Pathogens can often survive over the winter, so any diseased plants must be destroyed to prevent problems next year. It is acceptable to leave some perennial and/or flower stems where they are, as these are used for shelter by beneficial pollinators.

Instead of leaving the past season’s dead plant matter in the garden, you can top your garden with mulch for the winter. This helps prevent soil from being washed away as snow melts. You can also add dead leaves from the lawn onto your garden beds to provide organic matter. Soil that is combined with crushed up dead leaves drains well, and therefore can help prevent diseases such as root rot.

Another important task to take care of is sanitizing your garden tools before wintertime. This is a great measure to take because garden tools and pots can often carry pathogens.

Fall is a great time to get your soil tested. Most regions have some type of Extension office that can help point you in the right direction. Testing your soil in the fall ensures you have enough time to develop and implement a soil nutrition plan (if necessary) for next year’s growing season.

These simple measures can help ensure a productive garden for the upcoming season. Winter is also an excellent time to plan out next year’s garden. Apps such as Planter make garden planning easier than ever!

]]> The Importance of Soil Health https://blog.planter.garden/posts/the-importance-of-soil-health/ Mon, 21 Jun 2021 04:00:00 +0000 https://blog.planter.garden/posts/the-importance-of-soil-health/ When planning a garden, choosing which vegetable varieties you’d like to plant is only half the battle. For your plants to grow successfully, you should always check your soil health before planting. If your soil is too rocky, too acidic, or devoid of nutrients, you are going to have trouble getting much of anything to grow in your garden. It is best to check up on your soil health long before planting time, so that if amendment is necessary, you will have adequate time to do so. When planning a garden, choosing which vegetable varieties you’d like to plant is only half the battle. For your plants to grow successfully, you should always check your soil health before planting. If your soil is too rocky, too acidic, or devoid of nutrients, you are going to have trouble getting much of anything to grow in your garden. It is best to check up on your soil health long before planting time, so that if amendment is necessary, you will have adequate time to do so.

There are many different factors which affect soil health. One factor is your soil’s nutrient content. Some plants can grow very well in poor soil, such as lavender and most beans. Others require extremely nutrient-rich soil, such as many varieties of squash. These plants are considered “heavy feeders,” and your soil must be amended if it is to produce big, healthy fruits. Three significant nutrients which plants require are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These nutrients can be added to the soil by working in compost prior to planting time, and/or by applying a store-bought fertilizer to your soil during the growing season.

Another factor to be considered when planning a garden is your soil’s pH. Most vegetables prefer slightly acidic soil. Many states have programs where you can send in a small clump of soil for a free/inexpensive pH test. Basic amendments for pH include applying limestone to increase pH, and applying aluminum sulfate or sulfur to decrease pH.

It is also important that you choose the correct types of soil for specific crops. Root crops like carrots will not grow well in rocky soil; they will turn out thin and straggly, if they grow at all. Soils with too high a clay content will drain poorly, which can cause root rot. On the other hand, soil which is too sandy might drain TOO quickly, and you will find yourself having to water your crops more frequently. Loamy soils are ideal for gardening, as they will retain water but not drown your plants’ roots.

This is just an overview of the many factors involving soil health, and why it is so crucial when it comes to vegetable gardening. If you are unsure about your yard’s soil health, you can always construct raised beds and use bagged soil, purchased from a gardening center. You can even create your own soil mixes for raised beds.

Sources:

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/changing-the-ph-of-your-soil/#:~:text=Vegetables%2C%20grasses%20and%20most%20ornamentals,vigorous%20growth%20and%20nutrient%20deficiencies.

https://www.provenwinners.com/learn/dirt-dirt-sand

]]> Soil Options for Raised Bed Gardening https://blog.planter.garden/posts/soil-options-for-raised-bed-gardening/ Wed, 16 Jun 2021 04:00:00 +0000 https://blog.planter.garden/posts/soil-options-for-raised-bed-gardening/ Square foot gardening often takes place in raised beds. These can be pre-purchased or constructed by the gardener. While constructing the beds is fairly straightforward, figuring out what exactly to put in the beds can be a little more complicated. One of the advantages of raised bed gardening is that you are not limited by the soil on your property, which can sometimes be less than ideal for certain crops. While you can buy pre-mixed bags of soil that are specifically made for raised bed gardening, this can get very pricey if you have a lot of ground to cover. Square foot gardening often takes place in raised beds. These can be pre-purchased or constructed by the gardener. While constructing the beds is fairly straightforward, figuring out what exactly to put in the beds can be a little more complicated. One of the advantages of raised bed gardening is that you are not limited by the soil on your property, which can sometimes be less than ideal for certain crops. While you can buy pre-mixed bags of soil that are specifically made for raised bed gardening, this can get very pricey if you have a lot of ground to cover. There are more efficient ways to fill in your raised beds, either by manually mixing several different soil components, or by a method deemed ‘lasagna gardening.’

To create your own soil mix, you can bulk buy and combine three different materials: topsoil, compost, and potting soil. The recommended ratios are 60% topsoil, 30% compost, and 10% potting soil. In other words, for every 6 bags of topsoil, you should buy 3 bags of compost and 1 bag of potting soil; assuming the bags are about the same size. Depending on the size of your raised beds, you may want to work with smaller amounts of soil at one time. I usually use an empty coffee jar to scoop my portions of soil. After placing 6 scoops of topsoil, 3 scoops of compost, and 1 scoop of potting soil, I use a handheld cultivator to mix the materials together. The mixing can be done right in the raised bed, or in a 5-gallon bucket, which is then poured into the bed. I continue this method until the raised bed is full. Thankfully, this process only needs to be done once.

Another method which is both efficient and economical is called ‘lasagna gardening.’ As the name suggests, this method involves layering different types of organic matter. Lasagna gardening is more economical than the previous method, because you likely have most of the materials at home! If you are creating a lasagna garden, it is best to start many months before you actually intend on planting things, as the materials should be given some time to intermingle and disintegrate. The first ‘layer’ of a lasagna garden is a thick stack of either wet newspaper or cardboard. The purpose of this layer is to prevent any grass or weeds, which may still exist underneath, from entering the raised bed. After that layer is placed, you will go back and forth between creating layers of orange organic matter and green organic matter (see diagram below).

The orange layer should be made up of dry materials- hay, dead leaves, and even small twigs are ideal. It is best to have an orange layer directly above your newspaper/cardboard layer to ensure good drainage. The green organic matter should consist of plant material such as veggie scraps, coffee grounds, and lawn clippings. This layer also often contains manure. Do not place any meat scraps into these layers, as this will attract rodents. Alternate between orange and green layers, each a few inches thick. Once you reach the top of your raised bed, add a few inches of compost to the very top. Thoroughly water your filled raised bed and allow the organic matter to decompose over several months before planting.

Either one of these two methods is a surefire way to deliver the required nutrients to your plants, allowing them to grow abundantly. They are both economical and easy for beginners. For further help with planning your garden, be sure to download the Planter app.

]]> Understanding Fertilizer Labels https://blog.planter.garden/posts/understanding-fertilizer-labels/ Fri, 11 Jun 2021 04:00:00 +0000 https://blog.planter.garden/posts/understanding-fertilizer-labels/ Not everybody fertilizes their garden. However, consistent fertilization can make or break your crop yield. Different plants require different ratios of nutrients, hence the plethora of different fertilizer types available today. When you look at most fertilizer bottles, you will see a sequence of three numbers separated by dashes; 5-5-5, for example. These numbers represent the ratios of three specific nutrients which are essential for growing most plants, expressed as percentages. Not everybody fertilizes their garden. However, consistent fertilization can make or break your crop yield. Different plants require different ratios of nutrients, hence the plethora of different fertilizer types available today.

When you look at most fertilizer bottles, you will see a sequence of three numbers separated by dashes; 5-5-5, for example. These numbers represent the ratios of three specific nutrients which are essential for growing most plants, expressed as percentages. In order, the numbers represent:

Nitrogen: Nitrogen accounts for vigorous leaf growth and plant greenness. Plants that do not receive their required amounts of nitrogen will grow very slowly and take on a pale color. However, if you over-apply nitrogen, plants will put too much effort into leaf growth, causing smaller than expected fruits.

Phosphorus: Phosphorus contributes to root and flower growth. Oftentimes you will see ‘phosphate’ written on a fertilizer label instead of ‘phosphorus;’ phosphate is simply a compound containing phosphorus. This nutrient also helps with fruit and seed development. Phosphorus helps plants utilize other nutrients effectively. If a plant does not receive enough phosphorus, it will develop weak roots, and will often be devoid of fruits and flowers. If you live directly next to a body of water, it is best to limit your phosphorus use, as excessive phosphorus in water bodies can cause harmful ecological issues.

Potassium: Potassium, sometimes referred to as the compound ‘potash’ on labels, helps with overall plant growth. It helps to balance root growth and top growth. This equilibrium helps plants in many aspects, including cold/drought tolerance, and disease/pest resistance.

For example, a 5-5-5 fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. It is crucial to select the proper fertilizer when planning your garden. Most vegetables need more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen, but there are always exceptions. Plants like zucchini are heavy feeders, and if the soil does not contain the required nutrients, you could run into trouble. There are other plants that can thrive in very nutrient-devoid soil. If you do not want to deal with the burden of fertilizing, these plants might be your best bet. Each plant description on the Planter app contains feeding instructions, specific to the selected plant.

Sources:

https://www.ncagr.gov/cyber/kidswrld/plant/label.htm

https://www.pennington.com/all-products/fertilizer/resources/understanding-fertilizer-labels

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